Mammy's Cupboard

Natchez, Mississippi is a small town that has literally been frozen in time. The streets are lined with homes and buildings that were built before the Civil War. Every March there is a citywide festival known as the Spring Pilgrimage. For several weeks, people come from all over the world to tour homes and learn about the history of the American south. While this type of the event is not uncommon for historical towns, Natchez has one attraction that sets it apart from the others. That’s Mammy’s Cupboard.

Mammy’s Cupboard is a restaurant near Highway 61 that was built in the shape of the plantation “mammy.” The restaurant is set inside her giant red skirt while the rest of her body is sitting on top of the roof. (There’s a link to a picture at the bottom of the page) I’m sure I don’t have to tell you what is wrong with this image. For so long, it has been deemed acceptable for this restaurant to continue business. In Natchez, she is not considered weird or out of place, she is simply another part of life; another tourist attraction.

I guess the restaurant does not seem to bother Natchezians because their economy is partially dependent on pre-civil war and civil war-related attractions. And for most residents, Mammy’s Cupboard has been around longer than they have (it was built in the 1940’s). What is concerning, though, is the lack of surprise or questioning from outsiders. Blogs and newspapers do not express outrage. Instead, one writer described the restaurant as “a startling icon along today’s politically correct icons—one of those “Did I really see what I think I saw” images.” Food reviews complement the restaurant on it’s uniqueness, quirkiness, and great food. People are not disturbed by the fact that they are eating inside the skirt of a slave.

Over the years, Mammy’s skin color has changed from dark brown to a lighter color. Some suggest it is “a tacit acknowledgement by the owners that the dark skin was at best inappropriate, and worse, an offensive reminder of the not-too-distant past.” While that may have been the goal, the owners missed their mark. Mammy is still obviously not white, and it is still very clear what her position is supposed to be.

I have several questions surrounding this place of business. 1) Why do you think when outsiders see this restaurant for the first time, many do not find it out of the ordinary? 2) If you were driving down the road and came upon Mammy’s Cupboard, what would be your initial reaction? 3) Do you think the existence Mammy’s Cupboard is ok because she represents a part of local and southern history, or is there a better way to tell the story? What’s the better way?

http://eccentricroadside.blogspot.com/2010/10/cruising-down-mammy-lane-mammys.html